Thick, chewy, slightly smoky noodles topped with sliced char siu-style pork, crisp noodle croutons, greens and herbs, with only a small amount of intensely flavored broth.
Tossed together at the table so the small amount of sauce coats everything, then eaten with herbs and chili.
Central (Hội An)
Fiercely local. Hội An cooks argue that it cannot be made properly anywhere else, which is part of its reputation.
A reminder that Vietnamese cuisine includes hyper-local dishes that never became national — and that trade history is written into food.